There are a plethora of weapons on every SCA list. Pole Arms of every description, great swords, bastard swords, weapon and shield combinations that define logic. But, when it comes to fighting large melees what's the real killer on the field? The spear. As I think about all the ways I've died in melee over the years the most common, by far, is from spears. It's easily 7 out of 10 deaths. In fact in recent times I redesigned my body armor specifically to be better at taking spear thrusts over all other attacks.
Why is it then that spears are so seldom used in our kingdom? Why is spear fighting not taught? Why are our spears constantly out numbered 3 to 5 or worse in melee with other kingdoms? Why can't virtually any region in the Midrealm boast of more that a tiny handful of competent spear fighters?
Of course the answer to these questions are many and varied. Partly, it's the way we do spear authorization. Usually, it's tossed in with the Pole Arm authorization. A Pole Arm, however, isn't a spear. Partly, its because we are a tourney concentrated kingdom and spears don't rate in tourneys. Partly, its because once someone has the spear authorization they only pick one up and use it once or twice a year. Who can be good with a weapon that they only use two or three times a year? Partly its because we tend to build great shield walls. We concentrate with such focus on keeping the wall that we forget to give the wall the teeth it needs. The list goes on and on.
Here's the usual scenario for a fighter with a new spear authorization. He grabs a buddies spear and goes out into battle. Why?, because he can, he has the authorization doesn't he? He may have 3 Pole Arms in his kit but he never got round to making a real spear. He promptly gets clobbered because he doesn't have a weapon in his hands that he knows how to fight with. He gets killed quickly because he doesn't know where to be, when to move, or how to defend himself His arms get tired quickly because his buddies' spear isn't weighted properly and he and his buddy probably don't realize it. His attacks and timing are off because he doesn't know how to range the weapon or time his attacks. He gets winded a lot sooner because spears on the attack are a high energy demanding weapon and being badly balanced makes it even more energy draining. In short he has a lousy time, he throws the spear back at his buddy, and never picks the weapon up again.
Here are a few tips and training methods for learning spear work
First of let's look at the weapon. We have two choices of material open to us, Pultruded Fiberglass (FG), and Rattan. Each have it's pros and cons. FG is immune to weather but not to the sun. Too much sunlight will make it brittle over time. It doesn't flex like rattan so it can deliver a solid punch and it's easier to target; however, it doesn't flex like rattan so it's easy to over do it, especially with a face thrust. It's fairly easy to counterweight because it is hollow; you don't have to drill out a space to weight the butt end. However, it's hollow and will break if it gets old or caught with enough shearing force. Rattan isn't bothered by the sun but is affected by weather. If left in the damp it can and will warp. It flexes so blow calibration is pretty consistent, but, some people will tend to gaff shots from it. It's solid so it's very unusual to break one, but it can break if abused enough. It has a two-inch tip, as opposed to a three-inch tip for a FO spear, so it can sneak into places the FO can't. It takes a little more work and a few tools to balance the Rattan when you make a spear. Similarities, both weigh about the same, have the same reach, and balance out well.
Besides attaching a good tip, the most important thing to do with a spear is to properly counter balance it. I can't stress this enough. An unbalanced or ill-balanced spear makes you work far harder than you need to and makes for a very ungainly weapon. Here's how I like to balance mine. Divide the length of the shaft into three equal parts. Front towards the tip, center, and rear, towards the butt end. The weapon should be balanced so that, with both hands holding the shaft level across my body, and my hands equidistant on either side of the balance point, the mark between the center section and the rear section is right on my bodies' centerline. In other words the balance point for the weapon should be at the point where the center and rear third mark is. Some people I've talked to prefer the balance point to be farther out on the rear third than that. Experiment and see what works best for you.
The second most important thing to do is to have a good solid hook just below the tip. At times when I didn't have a good attack I have been able to literally pull someone right out of an opposing shield wall and into our wall thus creating a hole it the opposing line. Besides hooking shields I've hooked the occasional Pole Arm and Greatsword much to the surprise of our opponents.
Spears will generally work most closely with Shieldmen. In an open/unorganized formation the Spearman needs to be just to the right or left and a half step behind a Shieldman with the spear leveled at about waist high. The shaft of the spear should be just clear of the outer edge of the shield so as not to interfere with it. Your body should be half covered or more by the Shieldman's shield if someone is looking from straight in front of you. This means your going to be as close as you can to the Shieldman without getting in his way. At times as you use the Shieldman to duck behind you will literally be back to back with them. Many Shieldmen are unaware of your need to be there or the good things you can do for them if you are there. Some Shieldmen get down right unnerved by it. It's up to you to educate them on what your needs are and how to work with you.
In an organized formation the Spearman doesn't need to be quite so tight to a Shieldman. Look for the gaps in between shields. Use those openings to work in as you make your attacks. if there isn't a space to set up, because of the press of battle, try and work over the shield arm instead of the sword arm. This will prevent you fouling your own mans weapon.
What should you do if you're closely engaged? The answer for most Spearmen is to drop back. This might keep you alive a couple of minutes longer but it's probably not the best thing to do. if charged I will accept the charge, drop my point level, and target an incoming shield. This will at least slow that charging man thereby helping to disrupt the integrity of the charge. if my point slips between the gaps of the charging shields I may be able to get someone as they run up my point. In a situation where you can't even level your spear at your opponents (usually a charge) level the shaft horizontally behind your own men and push. It will help to maintain the integrity of the line and make it much more difficult for the opposition to break through. A more daring move, after you can't level on the opposition anymore, is to horizontally level on the charging fighters. Raise the shaft of the spear so that it contacts just at the upper edge of the incoming shields. You can pin both the shields and the baskets/quillons of their weapons. By doing so they can't defend themselves and are much easier targets for your buddies to strike and they can't hit You. At times I have actually been able to pin the weapons and shields of four people at once. Because they couldn't swing I not only didn't get killed, I survived the charge and I helped push them back on the countercharge. There was very little they could do about it.
Lastly on the buff end you need to have a ring or lip firmly attached to the shaft. This provides a natural stop for when you attack, a tactile thing to key on for your return pull to get back on guard, and last but not least, a convenient grip to hang onto the weapon when someone tries to pull it out of your hands.
Now to stance. Stand with either side towards the target. Whichever leg is farthest towards the enemy is your lead leg. The hand on that side of your body also your lead hand. The lead hand targets attacks and guides parries. The thrusting hand (backhand) provides the raw power of the attack and the leverage to parry. A good spearman needs to be able to switch off at will to either a left or right hand lead as needed. Your arms will get fatigued and will need the rest switching can provide. Sometimes an attack is not possible from one lead or the other and you'll need to switch off to get the kill. Stand with your legs slightly crouched and spread apart and your weight evenly distributed between them. The point of the weapon should be level on your opposition or slightly elevated (about shoulder height).
How to attack. From the basic stance straighten the rear leg as you bend your lead leg, your weight will shift to your lead leg. Balance yourself on your lead leg, the rear leg should not leave the ground. (Don't over extend, it makes it hard to recover to your on-guard.) Lean forward with your shoulders. As you begin the attack your lead hand guides the weapon to its intended target as the rear hand pushes forward. As the rear hand comes forward drop your grip with the lead hand and let momentum carry the spear. Extend the rear hand forward and pivot your shoulders counter clock-wise so that the back shoulder comes forward. Reach as far as you can with your rear hand until your thrust is spent. Don't over reach or over extend, you become very vulnerable if you do that. Push back with your lead leg, draw back with your rear hand pivoting your shoulders back into position, regrip the spear with your lead hand as you turn to the on guard stance.
Now to basic training and drills. My thanks to Duke Brannos, KSCA of House Darkyard for some of these drills.
Remember that one of the keys to fighting spear is to know where you need to be standing. Once in range of your target imagine a three-foot by three-foot box around you. At least one foot should remain inside the box at all times.
Spear on Spear Training.
1) Have your spearmen pair up facing each other in two lines. This is a light contact drill. Have both lines take turns thrusting at the man across from them. As each attack comes in have the defender parry the thrust without moving their body, using the spear effectively like a large foil. Points to Remember: Come back to your on-guard position immediately after the parry. Spear point towards the enemy at all times. Keep the body upright. Maintain your center of balance. Don't lean back or to the side. Those are different drills.
2) Have your spearmen pair up facing each other in two lines. Have men in both lines take turns face thrusting (carefully) at the man across from them. Instead of parrying the incoming attack, flex the rear leg and lean your upper body and head away from the attack. After the attack push off with your rear leg to return to an upright standing position. Points to Remember: Your lead foot should remain in place. When you come back up come immediately back on guard. Remember to tilt your head away and back, this provides an extremely sloped surface to your opponent.
Team Work Training.
I) Have your spearmen line up two on one. This is a touch = kill drill. It can be done slowly (advisable at first) and at speed (advisable as you get more familiar with the drill). The object is for one spear to foul/trap the opposing spear while the second spear makes the kill. After half a dozen attacks, the attacking spearman becomes the target, the spearman who was trapping becomes the attacker, and the target becomes the trapper. Rotate through as needed so that each man gets a couple of turns at each position. Points to Remember: This is a tinting drill. If the attack and trap don't coordinate the target will evade/parry. The attack and trap should be one fluid motion. The two attackers should be talking to one another about that they are doing. 2) Have your spearmen line up two on one against any weapons form. Repeat the previous drill against each weapon's form. (And I do mean ALL weapons forms.) Note: At least one spear should have a hook to practice against a shield. It Can be done without a hook, it's just more difficult to learn if you do without one.
Once you?practiced with the basics you're ready for the field right? Well, sort of You know how to attack but now comes the need to know
where to be as part of a unit and what to do if you're closely engaged.
Remember spears aren?enerally used in tourney for a reason. Spears
need to work with other weapons forms to come into their strength.
Lastly, remember that this weapons form needs practice like any other weapons form. You can't walk out on the field with a spear a couple of times a year and expect to be any good with it. It takes dedicated use to become proficient with it. Take a summer melee season and in melee dedicate your self to using it just like you did when you learned two-sword, Pole Arm, or Greatsword. Only then will you truly learn the weapon. Maybe then we will start having enough people who really know spear and the Midrealm will be able to match the rest of the Known World in spearwork.
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